Sawdust

#1 - avoid standing water/condensation (that’s why we offer felted coasters and table protectors.)

Furniture

Standing water is the enemy of wood. There are no truly impervious finishes. The harder the finish, the harder it is to remove water spots/rings and light scratches. Our handcrafted furniture is finished by hand using tung oil to initially seal the wood, followed by oil/wax blends. No aerosol sprays are used, so that light scratches associated with ordinary use can be refreshed with non-toxic products easily obtained at hardware stores. For the most part, all that is required is periodic dusting, but furniture benefits from an occasisonal 'refresh' using a liquid oil/wax blend, applied with a soft cloth.

#2: Be aware of the effects of light exposure, especially direct sun if pieces are situated near a window (ideally not so close that furniture is exposed to rainwater!). Pine and cherry will darken over time and their aging process is often considered desirable, whereas walnut will fade in direct sunlight. Objects on a table surfaces - including ‘table protectors’ - should be moved periodically to prevent uneven color changes.

Platters/Bowls/rolling pins

As with furniture, platters and bowls are finished with natural oils and wax, typically using food-safe blends (e.g., butcher block oil). Shallow raised platters that are intended for decorative use need only be dusted. If items are washed, pat dry with a soft cloth and allow to dry entirely in a rack or on a towel. Periodically reapply butcher block oil and hand buff.

Lint

#1 - pummeling softens cloth (that’s why we make throws and pillows. We want you to be comfortable, and adjust as necessary)

Throws

Throws can be thrown, dragged & crumpled. Under ordinary use, just shake them out now & then. Let the lint fly. It’s all good.

Prior to sale, all throws have been washed at least twice - an initial hand washing followed by a slow spin/drain cycle in my ordinary front load residential washing machine, and a second time entirely by machine on a hand wash cycle. This is to ensure that you, too, can wash your throw at home if ‘something’ happens. Hand washing is preferred, if only to facilitate rinsing with hair conditioner for added softness (and preferred fragrance). Squeeze our excess water - do not wring. Even when I hand wash, I use my washer to spin/drain on a slow speed setting. I put a dry towel in with the wet throw to reduce creasing.

Dry flat if possible, supported on a rigid rack, or on top of a bed, flipping the throw periodically to allow both sides to dry. Wrinkles/creases, if any, from drying will work their way out, but iron if you like, low heat. DO NOT USE A DRYER. Throws can be dry cleaned, but it is not necessary.

If a loose end appears after washing (or before), just snip the end at the surface of the cloth, being careful to only cut the end. Yarn ends occur wherever there had been a bobbin change during weaving, and are woven along with the next length of yarn for 2-3 inches to ensure that, if one works loose, the cloth is still stable. If a snag occurs, use a crochet hook or wooden toothpick to gently pull the loop along the line of the yarn that has become taut in both directions of the snag.

Pillow covers

Both fronts and backs of pillow covers have been washed before sale to enable them to be hand washed at home if needed. Hand wash in a sink, roll in a towel to partially dry, and dry flat on on a rigid rack (e.g., supported by cooling racks used for backing, or a window screen supported along its sides to elevate it.

Felted Hot Pads/Coasters

Heat rings from coffee mugs or indentations from hot cookware rings can be removed with a clean damp sponge, turning the hot pad/coaster over and let the indentations work their way out through use, or ironing on wool setting. Treat spots or spills with dish soap and cool water and soak flat, pressing sudsy water through with your fingertips and rinse using similar action. Do not wring. Press excess moisture out between dish or paper towels and dry on a flat dish rack or baking cooling rack. Iron on wool setting if desired. Edges can be trimmed if desired, ideally with a quilter’s rotary cutter and straight edge, or scissors.